The Rest of the story

This year, Until now I have been preoccupied with all the preparations; planning and building the bike, testing and crashing, route plans and frequent updates on road conditions, logistics, spare parts, travel gear etc. Another project in the making, and that’s the way I went about it. But, Back to what happened last year from where we left off.

We had a few days to kill in Leh and rest much. It was entertaining with the Football World Cup on big screens. It got a little strange after a day or two of not riding. It was very impulsive and we just met with a bunch of friends who had ridden 10000+ kms all the way from the tip of the peninsula up to where we were. Little did I know, that the next 5 days will be spent in great places, bad weather coming our way and a lot more of adventure. We had no idea where we were heading. All that was spoken was, we were going to be in Nubra for a few days. So, we packed our tents, sleeping mats and bags and swiftly on our way, all 5 of us.

Camping did'nt go really well on Day 1 I must say. We were wandering a way bit too late and it was almost 9pm and it became dark in a flash. It lead to camp in an abandoned sand quarry with no food, no fire, no water. It was freezing cold in the night at some 16000+ ft and barely slept. 

Day 2 of camping did'nt go too well either. Just like how sand quarries are terrible places to camp, so are river beds, and river beds where it rains balls at night. Again, barely slept that night. Now we are at Turtuk, some 200+ kms away from Leh, where it doesnt rain as much as its in a rain shadow region. But guess what, Not so much in Turtuk.

With most of our riding gear wet, and all of us a litte tipsy, I lazed in my tent for another 45 minutes. The only option was to leave the comfort of my sleeping bag, put on my cold, wet riding gear and crawl out into the slight drizzle. Mornings like that really were what an adventure was all about. Enduring. Enduring fatigue, malnutrition, being cold and wet. Finding the mental strength to get up and out when the body resists. The reward is priceless. Only for the mind though, for the body it was more of the same and we decided that "camping" really was not our cup of tea given the weather and our present condition. 

There's a storm brewing !

Hunder

Thoise Airbase

We spent the next 3 days riding and exploring. Found a hot spring in Panamik and took a bath with a Japanese guy, stayed at local home stays in the valley, ate some great food and ran out of fuel. After a little bit of begging on the road, we got some fuel (thanks unknown german guy whose name I dont remember !) for my crazy friend who had ridden his old stroke all the way from home. Like some 10000+ kms away. 

Diskit Buddha

The historic silk route from Summur

It was time to part ways and it all happened a little too quick. We were back in Leh, and I left solo from there riding to Srinagar from where I'd ship my horse and fly back home. 

The road from Leh to Srinigar was all Tarmac. The infamous Zojila pass was joke after riding thro Spiti. It was all too easy and comfortable. The journey is extremely picturesque and Kargil, Sonmarg are indeed charming. Its a switch in terrain once you hit the low lands. There was paddy and lots of familiar sights ! The mountains in the rear view mirror, It did'nt feel all that good. 

I reached home the very next day and it was a gruelling wait for the horse to come home, which took a good 2 weeks. When I woke up in by room, in my bed, I felt like a stranger. True story. But, nevertheless, I gotta keep doing boring stuff when I am not doing awesome stuff and for me, life's such a fine balance, as I was already dreaming about a Winter Spiti and test my luck to spot some wildlife. 

Up Next - The Winter Chronicles ... 

Road to Leh

Apart from facts that its the next year and I am planning to head back to the mountains again (Very soon, indeed), Its rather been dull and I’ve been procrastinating and not writing much. But here it goes, continued from the day we left Keylong to Sarchu, and then to Leh. 

Spiti gave us a different perspective compared to the legendary Leh-Manali route. There was just 2 groups of people we met, A couple in an Innova and 2 guys on Royal Enfields. 

 It was about an hour after our departure from Keylong, we met flocks of people in cars, motorcycles, cycles (respect). It felt like we just joined the wagon.

Partly frozen Suraj Taal Lake a bit before Baralach La

We missed a heap of snow last year when we travelled the same road !

The terrain was less brutal, and what seemed like exhausting in 2013, was just fun in 2014, and not to mention all the Snow we had missed up top the pass.

Also, the roads were paved ! Going by the progress, I foresee the distance of 475 KMS, between Manali and Leh, will be possible in a single day with ease except for a few patches of broken roads/dirt roads. Some white guy told me that another white guy he knows has done it in 16 Hrs in 2012. Well, that must have not been fun, especially on an old beat-up RE.

 We decided to camp in Sarchu that night and spent less time on the saddle that day. We stayed at these beautiful steppe like plains in lovely cozy and clean tents. They even had a loo !

At 12000+ feet, Sarchu gets pretty darn Cold!

Define COZY

*Slow Clap*

We ate a tonne of food and slept like bears. We woke so late that the breakfast was over and everyone at camp had already left, Yes, All 18 of them...And we were still wrapped in boxer shorts and sleeping bags waiting for our turn to, well...you know. Hunger struck, and we left camp at Sarchu to grab whatever food we could, and By that I mean Maggi noodles and Tea.

Nothing had changed from the last year. Pang still looked like Mars,  More Plains was completely paved ! and I was glad that I did not lose my fuel this time.

We had to stop where I took a small trail in 2013 to this mystical place

Then I decided Ill go commando !

Except for some fire roads before Tangalang la, The tarmac was excellent all the way to Karu, Upshi and then to Leh.  I made a routine stop after Gya, at the place where I chilled the year before. We did all the nothing we wanted for an hour or so and were soon on our way.

Leh Palace in spot lights from the place where we decided to catch up on the Football WorldCup

The ever faithful Dawa had a bed ready for us on Fort rd (Hotel DRUK is a great place and has indoor motorcycle parking with 12 foot steel doors. So, If you're as paranoid as me and want to fall asleep with your motorcycle parked right outside your window, you will not regret staying here. A most importantly, Everyone at the DRUK are great folk !)

Went for a short stroll and met with friends who had made it to Leh from faraway places. It was indeed a great day to catch up on some mediterranean cuisine and never ending conversations of this place called "The Road". 

Its a pity that we had to leave Spiti ...

We stayed at Tabo as it became dark and cold in a whiff which was totally expected. On a motorcycle its going to be a little brutal riding with the windchill and lack of heating equipment. It was a fine homestay and no complaints at all. We slept that extra one hour as we had very little riding to reach Kaza, a quaint village in the Indo-Tibetian border. Lot more people, gasoline availability and ATMs made life a lot simpler. It made me feel very sad that we had to leave the Spiti valley. So I made up mind that I will be back here, may be in the winter ?

Whats more to come was gnarly roads, more amazing people and the road to keylong via Batal and Kunzum la. I am going to let the photos do the talking !

Home stay in Tabo

The Spiti river

Thats me trying to run to pose, but the camera beat me to it !

First glimpse of Kaza

No Caption required !

We stayed in Kaza that day, did some much needed laundry and more or less spent the remainder of the day gazing around without any real purpose. It was nothing short of awe.

The road from Kaza to Kunzum 

We found this massive plains in the middle of nowhere and we were hell bent on getting some throws!

And, Yes - 2 hands...that how you catch the disc :) 

The roads got gnarly, and the scenery became heavenly ..

At Kunzum La

First sight of snow and we had to park and explore !

and Yes, Gnarly roads anyone ?

If you're on the wrong motorcycle, its the difference between enduring and having fun

Single tracks and the Spiti river !

You can literally see for miles ! 

Terrible terrible roads and lots to learn ! Yeah, So what...we kept dropping our bikes..

The gruelling 176 kms from Kaza to Keylong is the epitome of adventure on a motorcycle. Even on Dual sport machines with ample OOumPH, it took us a good 10+ hours on the saddle (with lots of stoppage to enjoy the scenery, of course). With 70+ kms of amazing tarmac, the remaining 100 kms took most of the 10 hrs of riding.

I cant imagine being back there on the 'wrong motorcycle'. Even with light weight motorcycles, its nothing short of a battle. The terrain is absolutely unforgiving and there is no room for error. Its key to know your limits. Not to mention the altitude. Yes, we dropped our motorcycles. It was hard to pick them back up and continue 'unbroken'. The water crossing or what the locals affectionately call "Nalaas" are extremely excruciating to cross. The water crossings on the leh-manali highway after Jispa and ZingZing Bar are a 'joke' compared to the ones that you'll encounter in Spiti. The water is freezing cold and the later you are during the course of the day, the bigger the water crossings. The inhospitable conditions will make you feel like shit at the end of the day. A false dilemma, or false dichotomy sets in, I was even wondering why I like doing this.

If not for the great tarmac from Gramphu to Keylong, which brings some life back into you, the road or the lack of any will break anyone and everyone. True story.

It was 8pm !

We live to ride another day and reach keylong to enter the lahul valley

And, Its that time of the year... Here's wishing all you dual sport delinquents and other goofy quirky motorcycle enthusiasts an awesome year ahead ! Keep the shiny side up and the rubber side down, see you on the road in 2015 !